Monday, November 14, 2011

containing winter


"Every season hath its pleasures;
Spring may boast her flowery prime,
Yet the vineyard's ruby treasures
Brighten Autumn's soberer time."
--Thomas Moore, Spring and Autumn


(bold mustard leaves make a statement in the above container planting;
with coral bells, pansies, fern, and acorus)

Just last week I picked the final green tomatoes and jalapenos from the garden, just before the first frost. Despite this later than usual frost, there are still petunias blooming with mums and pansies on the front porch. The parsley and cilantro are still growing strong, and the lettuce has re-seeded itself.

Most garden centers are now discounting winter annuals and bulbs and I recently picked up some orange violas and ‘Bright Lights’ Swiss Chard for my blue glazed planter. Accompanied by the changing yellow-orange leaves of the Spirea, it is a striking combination. I’ve also included spring-blooming Grape Hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum) bulbs in my containers this year.

The conventional “thriller, filler, spiller” ideal in container gardening for year-round enjoyment can be simple to achieve. I suggest the following fool-proof recipe as a perennial backbone to which annuals can be added:

  1. Thriller: Autumn Fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) and or Sweetflag (Acorus)
  2. Filler: Coral bells (Heuchera)
  3. Spiller: Sedum and/or Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia)

With appropriate moisture, this combination can work well in the shade, partial shade, and sun. This provides an evergreen and tardily deciduous framework to which you can add coleus, sweet potato vine, petunias, pansies, vincas, or violas depending on the season, size, and exposure. Best effect is achieved with 3-5 different plants. 

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Top 10 Plants For Fall Color


"Autumn is a second spring where every leaf is a flower."

--Albert Camus





Blue star (Amsonia hubrichtii) yellow
Sensitive Fern (Onoclea sensiblis) yellow
Summersweet Clethra (Clethra alnifolia) yellow
Fothergilla (Fothergilla major) yellow-orange-red
Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) orange-red
Maple (Acer rubrum & A. saccharum) yellow-orange-red
Bottlebrush Buckeye (Aesculua parviflora) yellow-red
American Smoke Tree (Cotinus obovatus) yellow-orange-red
Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba) yellow
Black Gum (Nyssa sylvatica) yellow-orange-red

This past week was the peak of fall color in my part of the world and I had the pleasure of attending a wedding that wholly embraced the spirit of autumn. By no means is this an all-encompassing list for fall color, but the perennials, shrubs, and trees above are show-stoppers.

In many respects this time of year is the most colorful; and it’s the best time of year to add new plants to the garden. Be sure to keep newly transplanted plants well-watered as it also tends to be the driest time of year in the south with little rain and windy conditions.

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

deconstructing the garden




deconstructingpresent participle of de·con·struct (Verb)
Verb:
  1. Analyze 
  2. Dismantle

Shorter days, cooler nights, and the patchwork of fall-colored canopies frame life this time of year. Taking out warm coats and scarves, bringing in the last tomatoes and peppers; it is time to deconstruct the garden once more.

Cutting back perennials and extracting summer vegetables make room for mums and pansies which brighten the beds and endeavor to pay tribute to the finest of fall gardens, Dumbarton Oaks. All senses now perceiving fall.

Falling leaves and garden debris join forces in the compost pile. Black gold divided among the beds, and daffodils for planting; all the while planning next year’s venture. Enjoying the moment and aspiring for the future.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

happy birthday to me



Camellia, one of my favorite flowers, blooms each year on my birthday. There is a hedge of Sasanqua Camellias planted along the back side of my house, which I started from cuttings while a student at the University of Georgia in Athens. Camellia’s aren’t thought of as particularly cold hardy (especially Sasanquas); but these have survived several cold Nashville winters and now stand over 5’ tall.

Sasanqua Camellias bloom earlier and are more demure in flower and leaf size than their cousin, the hardier Japanese Camellia (Camellia japonica). Another cousin, the Tea Camellia (Camellia sinensis) is not nearly as showy as the other species. But its value lies in creating more cold-hardy crosses, and it is the plant from which tea is made!

The Camellia’s blush white to deep red flower stands out well against its dark evergreen foliage. And while I have planted specimens of this shrub for a few clients, I prefer to see them in groupings. My favorite grouping is at the Founder’s Memorial Garden at the University of Georgia, where Camellia hedges create walls of lush foliage and colorful blooms.

Between my love of UGA’s campus and my reverence for cold-weather blooms, I was destined to adore this shrub. Camellia’s are much more versatile and low maintenance than many realize. For a safe bet on cold hardiness, select a Camellia variety with ‘winter’, ‘snow’, or ‘ice’ in the name. Most prefer some shade and moist, well-draining, slightly acidic soil.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

tomato hornworms


This year I became acquainted with a new garden pest, the Tomato Hornworm. This large bug is actually a caterpillar that chomps away on tomato plants, in a perfectly green disguise. My first clue they existed was actually the frass (bug poop), because it is dark and stands out against the leaves. The ‘horn’ is fake, and meant to scare predators.

These bugs can defoliate an entire tomato plant overnight, so let’s discuss prevention and control. One way to prevent these pests is to cultivate the top few inches of soil wherever tomatoes have/are being grown. This will expose the pupa to predators, like birds. It’s helpful to have a birdbath in the area where your tomatoes are growing.

Another environmental control are parasitic wasps (Braconidae) that lay eggs, hatch, and spin cocoons on the backs of the caterpillars that end up looking like grains of rice. These tiny wasps slowly eat the caterpillar as they grow into adults. If you find a caterpillar covered in these cocoons, place the bug and some leaves in a jar with large-holed screening to enable the wasps to escape and infect more caterpillars.

I have only seen a few of these caterpillars (each with the parasistic wasps present), but should the issue become worse, the next phase of control is targeted insecticide. Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki) is a naturally occurring bacterium which targets caterpillars specifically. After eating the Bt sprayed leaves, they lose the ability to feed and die within a few days.

Bt is one of the safest insecticides on the market, sold under the names ‘Dipel’, ‘Green Step’ etc. and is certainly preferable to broad-spectrum insecticides. Lady Bugs and other beneficial insects will not be affected, and neither will the birds that eat caterpillars who have consumed Bt.

Some plant damage on plants has to be acceptable when gardening in an eco-friendly way; the Tomato Hornworm is after all the larvae of the Five-Spotted Hawkmoth (Manduca quinquemaculata). But, if you are dependant on your tomato crop for food, spraying Bt every few weeks will prevent crop loss and is an environmentally sensitive means of pest control.

The image above is a Tomato Hornworm parasitized by wasp larvae.

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Buttonbush [Cephalanthus occidentalis]



This plant ‘labors in obscurity’ says Dr. Dirr in his Hardy Trees and Shrubs manual; which may be why I wasn’t able to readily identify it when a friend asked me what it was last month. Except for these strange, creamy white flowers that appear in August, this large native shrub remains fairly anonymous. Its habit and texture remind me of Viburnum.

The temperatures are falling and the days are getting shorter. The garden is growing well and we received some much needed rain last week. Unfortunately that wind and rain bent over my smaller butterfly bush and I had to cut it back several feet. I still have blooms in the garden, but they are growing fewer. It’s time to think about fall annuals and select spring bulbs.

I’m turning my attention to planning and possible garden renovations this fall. I’ve decided to grow fewer tomatoes and increase my pepper varieties next year. I’ll remove some of the sedum and ultimately have more room for perennials. I’d like to include cut flowers and increase wildlife/pollinator habitat/food sources where possible.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Pop Culture meets Horticulture: reason’s Madonna should love, not loathe, hydrangeas…

Pop culture comes up in the world of horticulture and landscape architecture about as often as Madonna injects herself into that world, or hardly ever. This week we all learned of Madonna’s contempt for Hydrangeas, as seen in this viral YouTube video. But if Madge would take the time to see how similar the maligned flower is to her chameleon-self, she may actually come to appreciate this long-loved garden treasure.

A top-selling shrub, hydrangeas are extremely versatile, thriving in sun or shade with appropriate moisture. The more refined of the two most popular Hydrangea species is the Bigleaf Hydrangea (H. macrophylla) which can be found in hortensia (mop-head) or lacecap varieties. These pink and blue hydrangeas bloom on new wood and can change color over time in relation to the soil pH (acid=blue, alkaline=pink); ‘Nikko Blue’ is a popular Bigleaf variety.

The Oakleaf Hydrangea (H. quercifolia) has coarser textured leaves, can grow much larger (up to 8’ tall and wide) and has considerable fall color. Typically, Oakleaf blooms develop a pink hue with age. ‘Snow Queen’ is a popular Oakleaf Hydrangea variety, all of which bloom on old wood. A good rule of thumb is to prune all Hydrangea varieties directly after flowering; they make fantastic cut and dried flowers for arrangements.

There are more than a handful of species outlined in Dr. Dirr’s Hydrangeas for American Gardens, and that is a wonderful resource to learn more about them and their care. To be sure, there is a Hydrangea for every gardener and landscape architect regardless of sun exposure, hardiness zone, and design style much in the same way there is a Madonna album or phase we can each remember fondly and relate to.

As Madonna revives her image and career time and again, Hydrangeas continue to appeal to new gardeners taking shape as vines, shrubs, small trees, and even perennials. Indeed, they are the ‘Madonnas’ of the woody plant world, constantly being reinvented and always in the spotlight. Hopefully both the flower and the pop-diva will interest us for generations to come.

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Blue mistflower: one of my favorites

Eupatorium coelestinum, blue mistflower, oh how I love you. You are unassuming, don’t ask for much, and yet you bloom for months on end. Your assertive nature is endearing and your lavender blue flowers look great with everything!

This plant is truly one of my favorite native perennials. When you see it in action on a hot August afternoon, it’s easy to understand why. This plant flourishes at a time of year when many perennials start to look weary.

In his revised ‘Garden Perennials’ Allan Armitage calls this Eupatorium “A terrific weed, much more tolerant of heat than most other members of the genus.” This cousin of the well-known Joe-Pye Weed grows about 2' tall and blooms summer through fall.

A word of warning, this plant is assertive (not aggressive). I’ve seen it spread by runners as well as by seed; new plants will pop up across gardens and driveways alike. While easy to weed, this is something to consider before planting.

Blue mistflower is a terrific bedding plant and does well in containers too. It is the perfect compliment to Sedona Coleus, Verbena bonariensis, and Sweet potato vine as shown in the above image. And if you can’t find any to purchase, I have some to share!

dog days

We are in the 'dog days' of summer; plants are flagging, lawns are crunchy, and my morning coffee has to be iced. It hasn't rained in a while, so I'm watering everything several times a week.

The peppers are doing well and I've even had enough to share with friends. I'm trying to utilize jalapenos in every dish I can think of including stir-fries, eggs, and even tuna melts (pictured). The tomato is from my garden as well.

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

cucumber salad


The garden is growing well. The knockout roses are thriving and blooming more everyday. The peppers and herbs are very productive but I’ve had a paltry tomato yield. Finally, we had a good thunderstorm and with it almost two inches of rain this week!

Cucumber salad uses fresh ingredients right from the garden. This recipe is a blend of several sources including friends and neighbors (who supplied the banana peppers) and Jamie Oliver. I added the garbanzo beans to boost the protein and iron content. This salad was even better after a few days of marinating.

cucumber salad:
*1 large cucumber, peeled and chopped
*1 large tomato, chopped
*3 banana peppers, sliced
*1 can garbanzo beans

dressing:
*3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
*1 Tbsp. lemon juice
*1 heaping Tbsp. natural yogurt
*salt and pepper to taste

1. mix salad ingredients in a large bowl
2. mix dressing ingredients in a mason jar
3. combine salad and dressing, mixing well
4. chill at least 1 hour before serving

serves 3-4

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Frederick Law Olmsted & the Olmsted elm

Today marks the beginning of landscape architecture’s campaign for awareness. What is landscape architecture? It’s the design of outdoor spaces for environmental, socio-behavioral, and/or aesthetic purposes. Landscape architects design college campuses, golf courses, public parks, backyards, and everything in between.

The most iconic figure of our profession is Frederick Law Olmsted, often referred to as the “father of Landscape Architecture.” FLO was a journalist, naturalist, social critic, and public health advocate who believed that green space must be equally accessible to all citizens. His first design, New York’s Central Park in 1858, embodies that ideal.

Most Americans have probably visited an Olmsted commission, which are numerous and span the entire country. While touring FLO’s Emerald Necklace in Boston, I had the opportunity to visit the Frederick Law Olmsted National Historic Site in Brookline, Massachusetts. Olmsted referred to his home office in Brookline as Fairsted.

Administered by the National Park Service, Fairsted remains virtually unchanged. Housing nearly 1,000,000 original design records for some of the most important American landscapes including the U.S. Capitol grounds, the Great Smoky Mountains, Niagara Falls Park, the Biltmore, etc.; Fairsted is a national treasure.

A central feature of the property was the ‘Olmsted Elm,’ a statuesque 200+ year old American elm tree which held court over the pastoral landscape Olmsted personally tended. And just as the man became a symbol of our profession, the elm has become a symbol of the man. Unfortunately, the Olmsted Elm’s tenure has ended.

Suffering from Dutch elm disease, the tree exhibited typical signs of decline, including crown die back, dropping limbs, and peeling bark. This spring, the NPS decided to fell the historic tree which posed too great a risk to visitors. There are high hopes that one day a genetic clone of the tree will be planted in its place, though this may take many years.

In the meantime, the images of the Olmsted Elm will endure as FLO’s design theories and social principles have endured in his writings and throughout our nation’s great public spaces. Olmsted is a touchstone for many in our profession; his paradigm for egalitarianism and environmental conservation continue to inspire us, 150 years later.

This poignant video documents the felling of this historic tree.

Friday, August 5, 2011

my surrender to the knockout


The garden has been sort of uneventful lately. The tomato production is slow; but I’m harvesting a bumper crop of jalapenos and have several bell peppers ripening. The basil, parsley, and cilantro are doing well too. I’ve spent a lot of time watering, as we’ve had record heat for weeks now.

Overhauling the Iris bed by my mailbox has been the current focus of my gardening energy. The Bermuda grass had practically taken over and the area was looking very unkempt. After hours of weeding and edging, the planting bed is starting to look good again. I've decided to add some knockout roses, a river pebble border, and pine straw mulch.

Knockout roses always seemed like such a horticultural cop-out to me that I’ve never considered planting them at my house before. But then I saw them on deep discount at Home Depot and thought, why wouldn’t I want something that’s low-maintenance and blooms half the year? So I bought three double knockouts, for only $15!

These knockouts will not have tightly bound blooms full of heavenly fragrance on long stems for cut flower arrangements. But they will bloom throughout the hottest, driest part of the year with nary a chemical application. All I'll have to do is cut them back once a year and it's the low-maintenance, inexpensive attributes that have finally won me over.

The pebble border fills in the newly-cut edge and I hope will be a barrier to the Bermuda grass. If nothing else, it will make it easier to spray the Bermuda with herbicide as it creeps into the planting bed. I’ve had a chance to try out several natural herbicides and will weigh-in with my results on a future blog posting.

I think my grandfather would be tickled that not only have I planted his Iris in the bed, but with the addition of the roses it will be almost identical to the planting bed he tended for so long at his mailbox (which is now my mom’s mailbox). Now if only I can keep those roses happy through the dog days of summer!

[Pictured is of one of my favorite plant and color combinations, Verbena bonariensis and ‘Veterans’ Honor’ Hybrid Tea Rose.]

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

the High Line




The High Line is a 1.5 mile linear park built on abandoned elevated rail lines in the Chelsea neighborhood of Manhattan. Originally constructed in the thirties to lift dangerous freight trains off busy streets, the rail lines sat abandoned for over twenty years after the last train in the 1980’s.

In 1999, the non-profit group Friends of the High Line was formed. Ten years later, through a joint public and private funding effort, the first section of the park opened. Friends of the High Line is now responsible for raising private funds and overseeing the park’s maintenance and operation.

My first opportunity to visit the High Line came just before the second big section of the park opened in early June. My good friend Patrick Hazari is one of the architects working for Friends of the High Line and he gave us a personal tour of the project. Exploring this urban park was definitely one of the highlights of my trip to New York.

The design of the High Line draws directly from its history. In fact there are rail lines which have been incorporated into the planting beds and give shape to the hardscape. The planting design is inspired by the plant community that developed during the 25 years The High Line sat abandoned.

My favorite design element is how the planting beds effortlessly transition to hardscape; there are no hard edges. Every space is inviting and intimately proportioned to the pedestrian. This place is a must-see for every tourist let alone any plant, architecture, or urban-design enthusiast.

Monday, July 18, 2011

Bugs Be Gone!


In an effort to use fewer chemicals in all aspects of gardening, I have been testing two natural bug repellents. Repel Lemon Eucalyptus insect repellent spray (for skin and clothing), and Bug Band insect repellent band (which you can wear on your wrist, ankle, belt loop), both sold by REI for $9, and $5, respectively. So far, I’ve had good results, with no bites; but not without noticing strong smells.

Both of these products utilize plant derived repellents. The Lemon Eucalyptus is a natural bug repellent that I could only find at REI, after reading lots of promising research data on-line. The bug band uses Geraniol, derived from Geranium, which is a fairly common ‘natural’ bug repellent ingredient.

Lemon Eucalyptus is touted to be as effective as DEET for a short periods of time. Once applied, the odor is more pleasant than DEET, but still quite pungent. The bug band also has an odor, not as pleasant as the eucalyptus spray, but not as strong either. The advantage to the band is that can be removed easily, though traces of the scent linger. (I've been wearing the band around a belt loop.)

As someone who works outside frequently, I take the health risks posed by ticks and mosquitoes very seriously. At the same time, I want to limit my exposure to chemicals, like DEET, which may affect the nervous system. These plant-based options seem to be a good balance between effectiveness and healthfulness.

The photo is one of my Hollyhocks, which have been in bloom for several weeks now.

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Fresh Salsa from the Garden


“The mysteries of germination and flowering and fruiting engaged me from an early age, and the fact that by planting and working an ordinary patch of dirt you could in a few months’ time harvest things of taste and value was, for me, nature’s most enduring astonishment. It still is.” --Michael Pollan, The Omnivore’s Dilemma

I couldn’t agree more with Michael Pollan’s sentiment. Watching a seed transform before your very eyes into an edible or aesthetic wonder is nothing short of miraculous. And now, months after my initial sowing of lettuce seeds, I am enjoying a garden fresh salad almost every day.

The Swiss Chard and Sweet Peas are nearly ready to harvest as well. Since my last blog post, I have planted a Roma tomato, bell peppers (green and red), jalapenos and marigolds. I’ve utilized homegrown parsley, cilantro, and jalapeno pepper in several recipes including this Black Bean & Corn Salsa I made Memorial Day weekend:

salsa:
*1 (15oz.) can black beans, rinsed & drained
*1 can sweet corn, drained
*2 medium tomatoes, chopped
*3 bell peppers of different colors, seeded & diced
*1/4 cup diced red onion

dressing:
*1 clove minced garlic
*1/3 cup fresh cilantro
*1 Tbsp. minced fresh jalapeno pepper
*2 Tbsp. EVOO
*2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
*2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
*salt and pepper to taste

1. mix salsa ingredients in a large bowl
2. mix dressing ingredients in a mason jar
3. combine salsa and dressing, mixing well
4. chill at least 2 hours before serving

serves 6-8

serving suggestions:
*add chopped avocado just before serving
*this dressing gets better every day! (keep refrigerated)

Monday, April 25, 2011

April showers...


April has been a busy gardening month. When I've been in town, I've been working in the garden planting more seeds and tomato starters. The carrots, lettuce, and swiss chard have all sprouted and the Iris and Columbines have begun to bloom (and they make terrific cut flowers!).

As expected, I've had to spray the hibiscus with soapy water for black aphid control, which seems to have worked well. We’ve received lots of rain (which I’m now tracking on my newly installed rain gauge) which has helped the veggies (and weeds) grow. I need to install a support for the sweet peas and do some more weeding.

I’ve spent two weekends in Knoxville this month and enjoyed the Dogwood Arts trail and local garden centers. The picture above is a peony from one of the Dogwood Arts Festival’s open gardens. Last weekend my mom and I went to Mayo’s and I found two of the heirloom tomato varieties I’ve been looking for; they had a fantastic selection.

So far, the tomatoes I’ve purchased (and planted*) include: Early Girl*, Black Cherry*, Yellow Pear*, Cherokee Purple, and Black Krim. Early Girl is a hybrid red tomato grown for early harvesting (June). Black Cherry is a tiny black/purple tomato that I had success with last year.

Yellow Pear is another cherry tomato variety. I’ve never grown this variety before but I’m eager to taste test, as some tomato eaters prefer yellows. I’ve also never grown Cherokee Purple or Black Krim before, which are both large dark red/burgundy heirloom varieties.

A Roma (for homemade pizzas) and maybe a red beefsteak will round off my tomato acquisitions for the year. I’m also looking to purchase hot and sweet peppers, and more herbs including tarragon, sage, and oregano. The goal: to grow as much of my own produce and herbs as possible.

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Spring, Seeds, and Squirrels


Petals of the Bradford Pear trees are falling like snowflakes and spring’s baton has been passed on to the tulips, phlox, and dogwoods. Nearly all trees and shrubs have started leafing out. Two of my favorite perennials have started coming up and I patiently wait for their flowers, the peony (Paeonia) and wild indigo (Baptisia).

Peonies can easily be weighed down by their gigantic blooms, and I had decided to stake mine this year to be as efficient as possible with planting bed space. But before I could buy a support, I found something around the house I could use. An old iron plant stand with a scroll work top works perfectly!

There is still no sign of germination in my carrots, lettuce, or Swiss Chard. With good weather predicted, I hope to be spending lots of time in the garden this weekend. I’ll be planting more seeds: Sugar Snap Peas, bush beans, and the first rounds of parsley and chives. As well as more weeding and bed prep for future veggie planting.

Working in the narrow planting bed between my driveway and the property line fence, I noticed that my mint has become out of control. If anyone would like some mint of their own, please let me know! I have more than enough to share, but I would recommend planting it in a pot of otherwise contained area as it is AGGRESSIVE.

A new garden challenge of sorts arose last week; squirrels have figured out how to access the bird feeder. While squirrels don’t bother me that much, I would prefer they leave the bird’s food alone. So I’ve devised a plan, I’m going to add red pepper flakes to the bird food. This should discourage the squirrels without harming the birds.

Happy gardening everyone!

*The above image is the front of the Sugar Snap Pea seed packet from Botanical Interests. They are a great source for all things seed and have a wide selection of organic seed too. Lucky for me, I have found their seeds at my favorite local garden shop, Moore & Moore.

Thursday, March 24, 2011

sowing seeds & spotting turkeys


The first round of lettuce, carrots, and Swiss Chard seeds are planted! I’m eager to see how they perform, my goal is to have several months of salads right from the garden. All in all, it was an extremely productive weekend in the garden; I even pruned up the euonymus hedge and cut back my large butterfly bush considerably.

The lettuce I planted is the Black Seeded Simpson Variety which is known as a fast lettuce that withstands some frost, heat, and draught; it also bolts late. Mature at 40 days (April 29th), this variety can be harvested as early as 3 weeks (April 10th). The last sowing should occur 2 weeks before the last frost (October 1st).

An heirloom carrot, Scarlet Nantes is prized for its sweet flavor, crisp texture, and ease of growth in more challenging soils. Maturing at 65 days (May 24th), this variety can be planted up until the end July for fall harvest. I plan to plant several rounds of the carrots as well, space permitting.

Reading through Alton Brown’s cookbook, Good Eats 2, I discovered that Swiss Chard is actually in the beet family, though it is grown exclusively for its colorful, flavorful foliage. My row will be ready in 52 days (May 11th) and can be re-seeded up to 2 months before the first frost, or the middle of August.

One morning this week we had the most surprising visitors walking through the neighborhood...wild turkeys! They were really beautiful, and quite large. I'm feeling more like an urban farmer all the time.

Friday, March 18, 2011

fall planted bulbs are abloom!




I don’t need a calendar to tell me it is spring. With temperatures in the 70's, there are new blooms to enjoy every day. Among my favorite flowers right now are crocus, grape hyacinths, daffodils, and my favorite deciduous magnolia, the Saucer Magnolia (Magnolia x soulangiana).

Perennial Crocus grow from corms (like a small bulb) planted in the fall. Their grass-like foliage and petite flowers won’t grow taller than 5”, so use them in the front of a planting bed. The white and purple varieties nicely offset the electric orange central stigmas. The spice saffron is obtained from the fall-blooming cousin of this plant (Crocus sativa).

Grape Hyacinths (Muscari) received their name from the spikes of blue flowers that resemble a bunch of grapes. This perennial, grown from a bulb planted in the fall, is even more petite than the Crocus. It’s perfect companion is a yellow daffodil, King Alfred for example, planted in alternating clumps/drifts.

Despite it’s observed commonness, the Saucer Magnolia is truly a thing to marvel. I first noticed this tree while going to school in Athens, Georgia. One specimen in particular (pictured in Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs) located out front of the AGD house on fraternity/sorority row is particularly memorable.

Its canopy of tulip-like pinkish-purple flowers is “one of spring’s greatest spectacles” according to Dr. Dirr, and I’m inclined to agree. This deciduous magnolia is a real show-stopper, with an attractive multi-trunked habit. But, since it’s just a one season wonder, I would plant this only as a specimen or focal point of a spring garden and not in a group.

This weekend marks seed planting time for my lettuce, carrots, and Swiss Chard! Another landscape project I hope to start is installing a stone border that wraps around all the planting beds against the house. Aside from aesthetic benefits, the border should also help slow the spread of Bermuda grass into the planting beds.

And speaking of grasses, if you haven't already cut back landscape grasses such as River Oats (Chasmanthium), Sioux Blue Indian Grass (Sorghastrum), Sweet Flag (Acorus) et cetera, do it now, before the new shoots emerge!

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

11 days til spring!



The Hellebores (pictured) are looking better everyday. Peonies are starting to come up out of the ground; their little red spikes look other-worldly. I’ve also noticed the Star Magnolias (Magnolia stellata, pictured) blooming around town. There is nothing quite like a deciduous magnolia’s bloom, and if I had room in my garden, I’d plant one!

Last weekend I cut back all of my Catmint (Nepeta) to reveal new leaves at the base of the plants. It has rained a lot here lately and the damp ground made weeding out maple seedlings that were overwintering in my planting beds much easier.

More daffodils (Narcissus) are popping up, including King Alfred, which is another good trumpet variety. Daffodils make fantastic cut flowers; cut three stems for a simple (and fragrant!) arrangement.

Another garden task to be done this time of year: soil testing. Soil tests are fairly cheap (about $7 in Davidson County), can be performed at your local county extension office. I recommend testing every two years, or every year if you’re trying to correct a serious problem like pH.

Also, I planted an onion that had sprouted in my kitchen; not sure how that will fare outdoors, but I plan on eating the sprouts in a future salad. Now is a good time to plan the veggie garden and purchase seeds.

I bought lettuce, Swiss chard, and carrots to try from seed this year. All of these should be planted 3-4 weeks before the last average frost date. So I’ve marked March 20th (first day of spring!) on my calendar to kick off my vegetable garden. To find your last frost date, check here.

According to the Environmental Working Group, carrots and lettuce are a few veggies that contain high concentrations of pesticides. This isn’t surprising since these plants all have ‘thin skins.’ Because of this (and so many other reasons), I’ll be eating as much as I can from my own garden, and relying more on my CSA this year.

To find a participating farm near you, visit localharvest.org. In Nashville, I recommend Fresh Harvest.

Friday, February 25, 2011

Only 23 Days 'til Spring!













Currently, there are several blooming plants in the garden: Witchhazel, Hellebore, Forsythia, and Daffodil! What’s interesting is that three of these four bloomers are yellow. I happen to like yellow, think it’s a fresh and exciting color. But you may be surprised that in talking to clients, it’s one of the least favored flower colors.

Some of the Witchhazel (Hamamelis) varieties are still blooming and the fragrance is quickly becoming one of my favorite. It’s a sweetness tinged with citrus that makes you literally stop in your tracks to take in the aroma, delightful!

The Hellebores started blooming this week, and that show will go on for months. One of my favorite perennials, this plant is a real trooper. I went through and clipped out any tired-looking foliage, which made the flowers stand out even more. My hellebores are lavender blooming, but I love the white and speckled varieties just as much.

Forsythia is a great shrub to use en masse, if you have a large area to devote to them. But more often then not, they are (over) planted in small areas and pruned incorrectly. What results is a boxy-looking shrub with sparse flowers. This plant will grow 10’ tall and needs delicate pruning immediately after flowering to ensure a good show next year.

Rijnveld’s Early Sensation Daffodil (Narcissus) is the earliest hardy daffodil to bloom. It is classified as a trumpet daffodil, which means it has one of the larger blooms of the species. The two-toned yellow blooms stand about 12” tall, and will keep blooming despite any future blankets of snow.

There’s only 23 more days until spring, let the count down begin!

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

How to Make a Wire Trellis for a Brick Wall













Whether you want to cover up an unsightly façade or add another dimension to your outdoor space, a vine-covered brick wall is an easy project that will enhance any garden area. Choose your vine carefully though, as some vines grow aggressively and can over-take a structure quickly. For these reasons, two species to avoid are Ivy (Hedera sp.), and Wisteria (Wisteria sp.).

Proper vine selection will help determine the ultimate success of your project. It may be preferable to have foliage year-round but many vines with big, showy blooms are either deciduous plants or annuals. Also, take into consideration sun exposure, water requirements, and winter hardiness when selecting a vine.

You will need:
1 ½” fluted masonry nails
Hammer
Safety goggles
Measuring tape or ruler
Steel wire (I used 28-gauge picture hanging wire)
Pliers to cut the wire (scissors will work too)
Natural twine
Vine for planting

Instructions:
Pick a starting point on the wall a few feet up from the ground, directly behind the vine’s location. (The vine should be planted as close as possible to the wall.) Hammer masonry nail approximately ½” into the mortar joint so that 1” of the nail is exposed. (Wear safety goggles when hammering to prevent eye injury.)

Measure 12” above and below the nail (or roughly 4 brick courses) and drive nails or mark locations with painters tape to nail later. Measure 12” to either side of the three nails and continue with this grid pattern as desired for the height and width of the space and/or expected size of the vine. When all of the nails are in place, begin tying the wire.

Start at the highest point above the vine; tie the wire in a knot over the nail. From that nail, shift down and to the left (approximately 45-degrees); loop the wire around the next nail twice and continue looping nails in that direction to the last nail and tie another knot.

Repeat this design by connecting all of the adjacent nails above and below the strung wire so that when finished, there are multiple parallel strands of wire at a 45-degree angle from the center. Trim excess wire from all knots.

Knot the wire around top nail once more and replicate these steps on the right side, achieving a mirror of this pattern to the right of the vine. Trim excess wire from all knots.

After planting, begin weaving the vine’s branches through the wire supports. Periodically attach stems to the wire support with double-knotted twine. Trim excess twine from all knots. When finished, mulch the vine and water thoroughly.

Monday, January 31, 2011

first blooms of 2011!


As big snowflakes flurried around Nashville this morning, I saw the first signs that spring is in fact right around the corner…daffodils peeking through the soil! It will still be several weeks before they bloom, but it is exciting nonetheless. Today I was also greeted by the first bloom of 2011, Witchhazel (Hamamelis vernalis).

Witchhazel is a beautiful large shrub of which there are several native varieties. Landscape features include gorgeous yellow fall color and pungently fragrant yellow/orange flowers in late winter. This is a great shrub for massing in the back of a naturalized border planting. “A tough plant with an alley-cat tenacity” says woody plant expert, Dr. Dirr.

Another plant on my bloom watch list is the Lenten Rose (Helleborus). Speaking of Lenten Rose, the person who introduced me to that amazing perennial, Dr. Allan Armitage has revised Armitage’s Garden Perennials. The new version will be out this summer and is a must-have book for any perennial gardener.

Last weekend I took advantage of extraordinarily mild temperatures to finish cutting back all remaining perennials and mulching a few of the planting beds. Working in the garden, I noticed how graceless my large butterfly bush has become. I’m going to have to cut it back and remove a lot of water sprouts before it leafs out.

[Water sprouts are vigorous growths along a branch that grow almost vertically and are aesthetically displeasing.]

This time of year can be down-right depressing with grey days and freezing temperatures. Knowing that spring will soon be here provides some relief from winter doldrums. Until then, I will keep thumbing through garden catalogues and dreaming of warmer days and the beautiful blooms to come!

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

winter gardening


I planted a handful of daffodils last weekend. The image to the left is 'Ice Follies'; can't wait to see them come up this spring! I was pleased to find that it was relatively easy to dig the 6" daffodil holes in most areas of the garden. I sprinkled a few by the back door, some on either side of the front steps, and a few on the other side of the driveway.

While I was digging, I noticed that the pachysandra has spread even more, with little shoots coming up about 12-18" from the large clump near the back door. This time of year, garden troopers like Pachysandra and Lenten Rose (Helleborus) really shine while everything else is dormant.